Riding the waves.

India, Kovalam,
11-04-1995.

Every morning while I have breakfast, and for the rest of the day untill about dusk I wonder about the hilarious screaming of the "Idiots-Who-Ride-The-Waves". They swim up to a big wave - quite big waves here - and turn back swimming as fast as they possibly can just before being engulved by the wave.

If you turn back at the precise moment and swim fast enough you can end up "riding" the crest of the wave for some time. It is then, by tradition, you scream at the top of your lungs.

I tried it today and the increased level of adraline while "riding" the wave justifies a healthy scream.

The smell of roasting fish on the display tables in front of the beach restaurants, fills the nostrils of my nose while I sit on the beach in darkness and ponder about my imminent departure - and subsequent arrival - back home.