A holy cow on the beach.

Vagator Beach, 20-01-1995. Fucked out of my head on cheap booze and pot I said goodbye to the spanish amigos I made last night at the acid party and took back to my house - it is not like I lack the space there to put up with some overnight guests. I left them the house and the old woman to clear the whole rent thing with and with my head full with espanyol, my pack on back I wandered off to Vagator Beach running into a holy cow on the beach in semi-darkness - Shit, for how long have I been wandering around on this beach, must have been hours and I`m still not in Vagator Beach. Feel like I `m getting crazier by the day, it was only late morning when I left my spanish amigos behind on the "trek" to Vagator Beach and now it`s already nightfall, can`t remember the "trek" but whatever.....I made it to Vagator Beach eventually and found myself a room with a local family for only 60 Rp. a day. They made me promise to stay at least 5 days though. They must have noticed the state I was in considering they brought me a free meal 30 min. after I checked in.

Nightly beach parties.

Anjuna, 19-01-1995. A full moon is shining down on all the madness below. A 24 h. beach parties with acid, speed or coke - you name it - doped up people asking around for a chilam with a ready-to-smoke mix in their hands, their eyes have the desperate look like it is impossible to find a chilam in this crowd!!! Blond hardbodies scarcely dressed in thight fitting clothes soaked by their sweat from all the dancing they have done tonight. Techno music is loud in the air and must easily be audible in the village several km. further on, joints go around non-stop. The sfeer around here is probably not bad but the crowd seems to be mostly israeli. Difficult people to get to know unless you`re of the same nationality or at least jewish. I`m slowly kicking the Chilam/Charas habit and try to stick to myself in order to clear my haed of the notorious charas fog!!!

A spider big enough to eat.

Anjuna, night time. My house has no electricity either I found out when I return home well after darkness. Lighting a candle I discover a spider scrurrying around on my sleepingbag big enough to kill, cook and eat it, a decent meal for a hungry traveller like me. Thanks be to Lord Shiva for the chai shop just a mere 30 meters from my house. The place is just a wooden shack but they make food and have an electric lightbulb that even works - that can be consider a small miracle in India. I can eat, read my books and even write and draw in my scrapbooks. I meet a young couple at the chai shop that come from England that lodge here because they`re low on cash. I invite for a few hits from my chilam. When I return home the enormous spider is still around, no big surprise there. Now I even have a pet in this house.

The Anjuna market.

Anjuna, later the same day. The imfamous Arjuna flea market has obviously been taken over by the Kashmiris nowadays. I remember the days when only hippies and alternatives tried to sell their hand made ware at this markets. Now the beach is parked up and down with vans, Kashmiri people unloading carpet after carpet. Locals selling fruit and fish, It`s all pretty chaotic with tour busses in their hunderts, their drivers desperately trying to find a free parking space. Unloading thousands of western tourists, fat, ugly and rowdy, loaded with withexpensive camara- and video gear. Their favourite pasttime...gawking at all what is going on, pointing their camaras and videos at all and everything while drinking the not-so-cheap-anymore Goa beer. I watch it all wondering at what has happened to the old Shanty-Shanty Anjuna flea market with its easy does it hippies and chilam smokers from times past.

An old house.

Anjuna, 18-01-1995. I decided that Benaulim and my shitty room there, were decidedly uncool so together with my Cilam smoking partners from last night I took a bus to Anjuna. It`s only a mere 50 km. from Benaulim to Anjuna but it took us four bus changes before we got there, remember this is India, Magic Land and all that. Leaving whatever it is they call a bus terminal here in Anjuna, I got approaches by an old local woman, weather beaten face all wrinkled and not a single tooth left in her mounth, who offered me a whole house right on the beach for a mere 100 Rp. The place is huge but has no furniture, no toilet and no running water. It does have an old fashioned draw-well in the back and a garden that is empty of plant life. It does have GREAT views of the sea, though!!! Needless to say, I took it.

Fat bellied germans toasted a bloody red.

Benaulim, 17-01-1995. Golva has changed beyond my imagination since I was here last. So pack on back I walked the two km. to the nearby village of Benaulim watching the locals work the few rice paddies in Goa. I suppose the locals have mostly turned to the more provitable tourism industry. I have heard stories that you can nowadays board a plane back in Europe and fly straight to Goa, don`t even have to change planes anymore in Dehli or Mumbaz. Is probably why the beaches here in Goa are packed these days with fat bellied germans toasted a bloody red by the indian sun. A bloody 100 Rp. for a dirty room where even the hotel boys are unfriendly, will have to do something serious about that soon....I met a young couple from England I invited back to this shitty hotel for a decent smoke and the usual exchange of travel stories.

Heavily sedated.

Kutly Beach, 16-01-1995. I ended up at a GREAT party last night at the Shiva Restaurant - just a wooden shack on the beach really, don`t get carried away by a name here in India. The place got unsuccessfully raided by the police a few night ago - did they forget to pay their baksheesh or what? - , you wouldn`t tell from all the people who - paranoia free - smoked the Holy Chilam there last night. For me it was also a bit of a goodbye party since I`ll be on the 08.00 o`clock bus to Goa tommorow. So I kissed Susanna goodbye - as well as Kate`s very pretty sister who has turned up yesterday morning after having been missed mysteriously for the last couple of months. I ate the last of my grass and charras - I don`t like to travel with the stuff - and went to bed heavily sedated!!!